Brecon Y Gaer - Fort

With surprisingly well-preserved defences and a scenic location in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, the fort at Brecon Y Gaer ** is worth a visit. But getting there is a real challenge. Although looked after by Welsh national heritage body Cadw, there are no signs to the site, no vehicle access, and no interpretation once you get there.  No guidebook is available, and the information on Cadw's website is sparse. You are left with the clear impression that visitors are discouraged. Nevertheless, the fort can be reached with a bit of effort. 

Background and Context

The fort at Y Gaer occupies a strategically significant point in the Roman road network across what is now Mid and South Wales. Routes ran from here south-east to Caerleon (along the River Usk), south-west to Neath, west to Llandovery and north-east towards Clyro and beyond. The fort lies on raised ground next to the Afon Ysgir's junction with the River Usk - a naturally defensible site.

Y Gaer fort was initially built of timber and earthworks, probably around 75 CE, when an auxiliary Spanish cavalry unit (ala) of the Vettones was garrisoned here; a tombstone of a twenty-year old cavalryman (Candidus) has been found nearby. Stone walls were added when the fort was rebuilt around 140 CE. The name Cicucium has been associated with the site, although it is uncertain whether this was its Roman name. 

Evidence from three periods of excavation (most recently 2009-10) shows that the fort didn't only function during the Roman conquest of the area, but continued to play a role through the Severan era (broadly 193-235 CE) right up to the late 3rd and 4th century. Although not now visible, remains of a civilian settlement (vicus) lay outside the fort's north gate, including a possible bath-house and courtyard structures - one of which might have been a mansio (guest house or inn). Y Gaer was clearly an important staging point on routes into West Wales. The discovery of Native as well as Roman metalwork at Y Gaer poses interesting questions about the interaction between soldiers and local people here.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - west gate

Location and Access

Y Gaer fort lies 4 km west of Brecon, Powys, Wales (Google Maps location here). The nearest public road runs from Cradoc (Cradoc Road heads west from the centre of Brecon) to Aberbran (reached by a bridge over the River Usk from the A40 around 6 km west of Brecon). A private road links the Cradoc-Aberbran road to the farm containing the Roman fort. However, its use to access the site is explicitly discouraged (see sign below); interestingly, this was the only signage that I could find relating to the site, and even this doesn't explain what "the monument" actually is.

Unhelpful sign at the start of the private road

It is unclear whether there would be any objection to people walking or cycling up this road, and indeed Cadw suggests accessing the site by bike. In any event, there is no safe roadside parking in the vicinity of this junction, as the roads are single track with high hedge banks, so you can't just park and walk from this point.

But all is not lost. With reference to the Ordnance Survey map (Explorer OL12 Brecon Beacons West) two public rights of way pass close to the fort. One of these is a bridleway, running around 4 km from near the outskirts of Brecon. It may be possible to cycle along this route, but I didn't try it. 

More usefully, a public footpath runs from the Cradoc-Aberbran road up to Y Gaer, a distance of around 500 metres. This is a pleasant walk in summer, albeit involving a steep slope by the river and the need to negotiate two fields that may contain cattle. In wet weather, the route could get boggy, and wellies would be an advantage. The start of the footpath is shown below (Google Maps location here).

Start of the footpath to Y Gaer

While there is nowhere safe to park near the beginning of this footpath, a large lay-by (Google Maps location here) lies a short distance west (around 100 metres). There is space for several vehicles to park; however, it is necessary to walk along a short section of narrow road (below) to reach the beginning of the path, so do take care.

Road to lay-by (just visible in the distance) - take care!

Both the footpath and bridleway lead to a point on the private road next to a large detached house (Y Gaer) (Google Maps location here). From here, you need to follow the road south (between walls containing some suspiciously Roman-looking stones) and through a gate into the farmyard (pictured below). Note that there are no signs to guide you.

Go through the gate into the farmyard, turn left after the barn ...

Once through the gate, walk past the barn on your left and then turn left, going through a gate that's quite tricky to open. From here you can see the north wall of the fort, from which you are separated by three more farm gates. (At this point on my visit, a farmer appeared on a quad bike and waved me through, so I knew that I was on the right track). Go through these and you have reached the field containing the fort. Well done!

 

... and through these three gates. Part of the north fort wall is visible on the left.

Date of my Visit

The photos in this blog post were taken on my visit in 2026. 

Exploring the Roman Fort

None of the fort's internal buildings and structures are visible, but it is possible to walk around the inside of the defensive perimeter. Three gates, one angle tower and stretches of wall are visible; the farm buildings lie on the site of the north gate. A clockwise direction is suggested, so turn left after entering the field. On your left is the line of the fort's north wall (below).

Brecon Y Gaer fort - north wall (unconsolidated section)

This section of wall is better viewed from the other (north) side, which can be reached by crossing a stile at the corner of the fort. Here the wall stands over three metres in height, with the outer ditch also visible (below).

Brecon Y Gaer fort - north wall and ditch

The stile also gives access to the foundations of a square tower set in the rounded corner of the fort wall. This is the best preserved of the fort's (assumed) four angle towers.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - north-eastern angle tower

Brecon Y Gaer fort - fort wall at north-east angle tower

Continuing in a clockwise direction, the fort's east wall appears as a line of rubble crowned by trees:

Brecon Y Gaer fort - line of east wall

A break in the trees, and another stile, allows you to inspect the remains of the east gate (below) - rather overgrown at the time of my visit. Only one of the two guard chambers (the northern one) is visible here.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - east gate

A view  back across the interior of the fort from near this point (see photo below) shows that no structures can be seen. However, excavation by the Wheelers in the early 1920s revealed evidence of the headquarters building (principia), a granary and a possible bath-house (unusual within the fort itself, although a later one appears to have been built outside the walls).

    

Brecon Y Gaer fort - interior (no structures visible)

Our route around the fort's defences now brings us to the south wall, which although not consolidated is at least devoid of trees - so can be inspected more closely.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - south wall

The south gate, facing the River Usk, is well-preserved, with both guard chambers visible, and two carriageways separated by a central pier, which has a doorway through it. The line of a drain is visible in the eastern carriageway.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - south gate

Brecon Y Gaer fort - south gate (western guard chamber and central pier)

Brecon Y Gaer fort - south gate (eastern guard chamber)

Continuing around the circuit brings us to the west gate, also well-preserved. This has a similar twin carriageway layout to the south gate, but is unusual in that the guard chambers project out from the main wall of the fort. This may have reflected its 'main gate' status, as the internal road would have led straight to the principia.

Brecon Y Gaer fort - west gate (south guard chamber)

Brecon Y Gaer fort - west gate (north guard chamber)

This completes our tour of the fort. The north gate would have been located under where the modern complex of farm buildings now stand. 

Final Thoughts

If you have made it this far, congratulations! To some extent, I have made light of this site's access arrangements. But there is a serious point here. As it stands, the fort has no interpretation and cannot easily be visited by people with mobility difficulties. This could be very different if proper parking, signage and footpath routes were put in place. Obviously the site lies on a working farm - sheep were very much in evidence during my visit - but many historic sites occupy agricultural land, and suitable access arrangements can usually be made. I don't know what has happened here, but the present set-up is surely unsatisfactory for one of Wales' most significant Roman sites. Over to you Cadw!

Site References

Burnham, Barry and Davies, Jeffrey (2021). 'Forts, Vici and related extramural activity in Wales and the marches: recent discoveries at the Roman fort of Pen y Gaer (Powys) and their wider implications.' Britannia, 52, pp.67-95.

Lewis, Joe (2016). 'Finds from the frontier: Romans and natives at Brecon Gaer Roman fort.' Journal of Roman Military Equipment Studies, 17 pp. 235-242.

(See also the general References page of this blog).

Text and photographs (c) Mike Hetherington. Visits to Roman sites described in this blog are at your own risk.

Dorchester (Durnovaria) - Aqueduct

 

Type 'Roman Aqueduct' into any internet search engine and you will be presented with images of grand structures like the Pont du Gard in southern France or Aqueduct of Segovia in Spain. The Dorchester Aqueduct * is on a significantly more modest scale, being only visible as an earthwork. Nevertheless, it is largest and best-studied example of a water supply system in Roman Britain, as well as the most conspicuous, being easily seen by motorists passing by on the A37. 

Location and Access

Dorchester is the county town of Dorset in south-west England. Although the surviving remains of the aqueduct lie outside the built-up area, the most easily visible sections are close to the town, notably in the valley occupied by the Dorchester north-western bypass (the A37), which cuts straight through the aqueduct's line. Although the earthworks can be seen from this road there is nowhere to stop safely, so other viewpoints are recommended. Four of these are covered below, with access details described in turn.  

Date of my Visit

The photos in this blog post were taken during several visits in 2026. Construction of the Poundbury development (visible in the picture at the start of this blog post) is ongoing.  

Background and Context

Dorchester (Durnovaria) was an important centre in Roman times, forming the civitas capital of the local tribe (the Durotriges). There are a few Roman remains in the town itself (see my blog on its Roman Town House for example), and a Roman collection including some excellent mosaics in the Dorset Museum and Art Gallery. 

The line of the Roman aqueduct runs north-west out of Dorchester for over 20 km, its full extent remaining a matter of debate which is summarised in Manley et al, 2024 - a key resource in understanding the site (link here). Its actual and conjectured route is shown on the plan below, from that paper. The earthworks generally follow the south-western side of the Rover Frome valley around the 80 metre contour, winding in and out of side valleys.

Route of the Dorchester Aqueduct - from Manley et al. (2024). Copyright © The Author(s), 2024. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of The Society for the Promotion of Roman Studies. Distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons CC BY licence. Note however that the position of Poundbury (2) is in error: it should be on the higher ground further to the north-west.

There is no evidence of stonework along the course of the aqueduct, with only earthworks visible. The likely construction method involved digging of a ditch along the contour line, containing a wooden channel with a clay surround. See the figure below, also from Manley et al (2024). 

Section through the Dorchester aqueduct from an excavation in 2021. From Manley et al (2014). Copyright © The Author(s), 2024. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of The Society for the Promotion of Roman Studies. Distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons CC BY licence. 

The remaining sections of the aqueduct now show a clear cut into the uphill slope with a ditch and low embankment on the downhill side (below).

Dorchester aqueduct showing (left to right): the cut into the slope; the ditch that would have contained the channel; and the embankment on the downhill side.

The aqueduct's construction required a constant drop in height from the source to its final point, which is conjectured to be the west gate of the Roman town (near what is now the Top of Town roundabout in the middle of Dorchester). Manley et al (2014) suggest an average drop of 0.1 metres for every 270 metres length. Even if this wasn't maintained rigorously along the full length of the aqueduct, it still remains a highly impressive feat of surveying and construction. On the ground, this slope is hard to make out, although the eye of faith might be able to discern it! 

Viewing the Dorchester Aqueduct

Viewpoint 1 - Peninsula Way, Poundbury. If time is limited, then the best overview of the aqueduct's southern section can be obtained from the edge of Dorchester's newly built royal suburb of Poundbury - specifically from Peninsula Way at its  junction with Limbry Lane (Google Maps link here). You may need a satnav to find it, though, as Poundbury's street layout is rather confusing. 

Viewpoint 1 - Dorchester aqueduct seen from Peninsula Way, Poundbury.

From this viewpoint, the earthworks of the aqueduct are visible on the opposite side of the valley (photo above, with the embankment arrowed). This section can be inspected more closely from the footpath mentioned at viewpoint 3 below.

The picture above hides the fact that the A37 bypass runs along the bottom of this valley. The aqueduct continues on the side closest to the viewpoint, but cannot be seen in its entirety from this point because of the intervening slope. See the first photo in this blog.

Viewpoint 2 - Poundbury Hillfort. The remaining three viewpoints are all accessed from Poundbury Road, a minor road that leaves Bridport Road next to the Keep Military Museum. If heading west from the Top of Town roundabout it is the first turning on the right after the car park. While the next three viewpoints are walkable from the centre of town, please bear in mind that sections of Poundbury Road have no footway, especially beyond Poundbury Hillfort, and can be dangerous to walk along. Driving is preferable. 

It's worth noting here that Poundbury Road and its continuation north-west to Bradford Peverell follow the course of the Roman road between Dorchester and Ilchester (Lindinis), where the route joined the main Fosse Way from Exeter (Isca Dumnorium) to Lincoln (Lindum Colonia).

To reach viewpoint 2, park next to Poundbury Cemetery (there are laybys on both sides of the road - Google Maps link here) and go through the pedestrian gate on the right (north) side of the road. This leads to the south-west entrance to Poundbury Hillfort. Following the left hand (western) rampart brings you to the north-west corner of the fort (Google Maps link here). From here it is possible to view the line of the aqueduct approaching from the north-west (see photo below).  

Viewpoint 2 - Dorchester aqueduct approaching Poundbury Hillfort from the north west.

The aqueduct earthworks are less impressive at this point (indeed outclassed by the earlier ramparts of Poundbury Hillfort), but its line is clearly visible as a break in the slope on the side of the valley. 

Heading towards town, the route of the aqueduct then skirted the hillfort on its northern side, where its course is hard to distinguish from the northern ditch of the hillfort itself (below).

Viewpoint 2 - Dorchester aqueduct north of Poundbury Hillfort, with the hillfort's northern rampart on the right hand side of the picture.

This is the most southerly section of the aqueduct that can be seen. Its line was partly destroyed when the railway tunnel was built under the hill - by the trees are in the above photo's top right corner - and the route beyond has been lost to development. The industrial estate to the east of Poundbury Hillfort was the site of a major late-Roman burial ground; nothing is now visible on the ground, but one of the sarcophagi has been relocated to the Roman Town House site. 

Viewpoint 3 - Whitfield. Return to Poundbury Road and continue westwards to the point where it drops down the slope. Stop near the bridge over the A37 bypass - there is a lay-by on the left by Whitfield farm. A public footpath leads off on the left (south-west) (Google Maps link here). This runs parallel to the bypass, passing through the field containing the aqueduct section already described from Viewpoint 1. At the top of the field, the path crosses the line of the aqueduct. Here, you can inspect the earthworks at close range. The cut, ditch and embankment are easily seen (below).

Viewpoint 3 - taken on the aqueduct line, seen here heading north-east

From this point you can also see where the A37 bypass cuts through the aqueduct, with the line visible on the other side of the valley:

Viewpoint 3 - the A37 cuts through the aqueduct, which is also visible on the other side of the valley

It's best to turn around at this point and retrace your steps. Across the valley you can see the line of the aqueduct running below the houses of Poundbury (viewpoint 1), heading towards Poundbury Hillfort:

Viewpoint 3 - the aqueduct line below new housing at Poundbury

Viewpoint 4 - Roman Road. At the A37 bridge, the name of lane that you have been following from Poundbury Hillfort changes to Roman Road, reflecting its history (see above). Continue north-west along this lane for around 300 metres where there is a small layby on the right (Google Maps link here). The field on the left hand (western) side of the lane contains a good length of the aqueduct (around 500 metres) which can be seen from the road. (The land is private and cannot be entered.) From this viewpoint you can appreciates how the line of the aqueduct contours around this small side valley (photos below).

Viewpoint 4 - a well-preserved section of the aqueduct is prominent in the middle distance; the less obvious earthwork in the foreground marks its route on the near side of the valley. 

Viewpoint 4 - the aqueduct can be seen curving around the head of this dry valley

From this point, the remaining line of the aqueduct heading north-west is largely lost. A few sections of earthworks can be seen - for example on the left (south-west) of the lane halfway between the villages of Bradford Peverell and Muckleford (Google Maps link here, although note that there's nowhere safe to park at this point so you will need to go on and then walk back). However, these are less obvious than the sectionss described above, so are perhaps for the completist only!  

An alternative course of action at this point might be to head back into Dorchester and visit its other Roman sites (such as the Roman Town House) and/or the Dorset Museum, which has a decent cafe.

Site References

Manley, H., Cheetham, P., Stewart, D. and Russell, M. (2024). 'A source of confusion: new archaeological evidence for the Dorchester aqueduct.' Britannia, 55, pp.83-97 - link

Stephens, G.R. (1985) 'Civic aqueducts in Britain.' Britannia, 16, pp.197-208 - link

(See also the general References page of this blog).

Text and photographs (c) Mike Hetherington. Visits to Roman sites described in this blog are at your own risk.

References

Books

Bronze sestertius of Vespasian
from Chichester

Roman Britain - general

de la Bédoyère, Guy (2010) Roman Britain : A New History. London: Thames & Hudson.

Esmonde Cleary, A.S. (2000) The Ending of Roman Britain. London: Routledge.

Fulford, Michael and Holbrook, Neil (eds) (2015). The Towns of Roman Britain: The contribution of commercial archaeology since 1990. Oxford: Oxbow - link

Hingley, Richard (2026) Roman Britain in Twenty Towns. London: Bloomsbury.

Wilson, Roger J.A. (1975) A guide to the Roman remains in Britain. London: Constable. Dated but still pretty comprehensive (if you can find it). The most recent edition is from 2002.

Ordnance Survey Map of Roman Britain (2001). A bit out of date now, but still a good overview. 

Roman Britain - Hadrian's Wall

Bowman, Alan K. (2003) Life and letters from the Roman frontier (3rd edition). London: British Museum Publications.

Breeze, David J. & Dobson, B (2000) Hadrian's Wall. London: Penguin Books.

Roman France

Bromwich, James (2003) The Roman Remains of Northern and Eastern France: a Guidebook. Abingdon: Routledge.

Bromwich, James (2014) The Roman Remains of Brittany, Normandy and the Loire Valley: a Guidebook. Peterborough: Lucina Books.

King, Anthony (1990) Roman Gaul and Germany. London: British Museum Publications.

Rome (City)

Claridge, Amanda (2010) Rome - An Oxford Archaeological Guide (2nd edition). Oxford: OUP

Essential reading for any visit to Rome.

General Roman Reading

Abdy, Richard (2024) Legion: Life in the Roman Army. London: British Museum. Published to accompany the excellent exhibition of the same name.

Beard, Mary (2009) Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town. London: Profile Books. 

Beard, Mary (2016) SPQR. London: Profile Books.

Beard, Mary (2024) Emperor of Rome. London: Profile Books.

de la Bédoyère, Guy (2025) Populus: Living and Dying in the Wealth, Smoke and Din of Ancient Rome. London: Abacus.

Goodman, Martin (1997) The Roman World 44 BC - AD 180. Abingdon: Routledge.

Holland, Tom (2004) Rubicon: The Triumph and Tragedy of the Roman Republic. London: Abacus. First of a very readable Roman history trilogy.

Holland, Tom (2016) Dynasty: The Rise and Fall of the House of Caesar. London: Abacus.

Holland, Tom (2024) Pax: War and Peace in Rome's Golden Age. London: Abacus.

Shelton, Jo-Ann (1998) As the Romans Did: A Sourcebook in Roman Social History. New York: OUP.

Websites

General

Many translations (and original language versions) of classical texts, plus other resources - such as Codrington's Roman Roads of Britain (1903) - can be found at Bill Thayer's LacusCurtius website 

Britain

Association for the Study and Preservation of Roman Mosaics - ASPROM: The Association for the Study and Preservation of Roman Mosaics

Roman Britain - is an impressively comprehensive website, covering the majority of Britain's Roman sites. Also includes general background information and text from primary sources.

Roman Inscriptions of Britain - Home | Roman Inscriptions of Britain - an extraordinarily useful resource.

Vindolanda - Vindolanda Trust

Rome

Colosseum, Forum and Palatine - Parco Archeologico del Colosseo

Trajan's Markets - Mercati di Traiano

Ostia

The buildings in Ostia - an impressively comprehensive website, although some of the photos are now dated.

Rome - Trajan's Markets

A multi-level site in the heart of Rome's Imperial Forums district, the Trajan's Markets *** complex provides an interesting (and quieter) contrast to the busy Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. Rising up the side of the Quirinal Hill behind Trajan's Forum, the 'Markets' (which may well be misnamed) contain streets at three separate levels flanked by smaller vaulted units, knitted together by a network of passages and stairways. Perhaps overlooked by many visitors to the city, the surviving remains are a superb example of Roman urban architecture from the early 2nd century CE. A visit is strongly recommended.

Location & Access

Trajan's Markets lie on the side of the Quirinal Hill, appearing in views from the Via dei Fori Imperiali as a mass of arches and brick-built structures rising above the scant remains of Trajan's Forum (see photo below). The obvious tower is the separate medieval Torre delle Milizie, which was closed at the time of my visit.

Trajan's Markets viewed from the Via dei Fori Imperiali, Rome.

Access to the site is from the Via IV Novembre (location link here) over a small modern footbridge. The site entrance is at the side of the complex, at a higher level than the Imperial Forums. If approaching from the Via dei Fori Imperiali, the best pedestrian route is to go past Trajan's Column and up the steps of the Via Magnanapoli. This leads to the Via IV Novembre, where the site entrance is on the right.

Opening times are listed on the site's website, with admission charges varying depending on whether a temporary exhibition is being hosted. At the time of writing, the site is open on Mondays - unlike the Colosseum and Roman Forum - but this may change, so check before visiting. The nearest Metro stations are Colosseo or Cavour (both on line B), with about a 15 minute or so walk from either, including some hills. The upper part of the Markets complex has been adapted for wheelchair access.

Trajan's Markets also contains the Museum of the Imperial Forums (Museo dei Fori Imperiali), containing statues and other finds from the nearby Forums of Augustus, Julius Caesar and Nerva as well as the Forum of Trajan. Temporary art exhibitions are also hosted.  

Date of my Visit

The photos in this post are from my visit in 2026.

Brief Historical Background

The date of Trajan's Markets has been the subject of debate. The current view, including research on brick stamps from various parts of the complex, is that early works began under the reign of Domitian (81-96 CE), with the building being completed under Trajan (98-117 CE). The semi-circular plan of the main body of Trajan's Markets clearly aligns with the rear wall (exhedra) of Trajan's Forum below, although little of the latter now survives.

Similar questions have been asked about the function of the complex. The 'Great Hall' on the upper level, now the main entrance, has a striking resemblance to a modern shopping mall, with a central atrium flanked by what appear to be small shops or taverns (see the first photo in this post). When the site was excavated in the early 20th century, it was thought that these had a retail or other commercial function, leading to the modern 'Trajan's Markets' name, and until recently this remained the prevailing view (Claridge, 2010). However, the site's official website now explains that the buildings "made up a sort of “multi-functional centre”, where public activity took place" - that activity being the administration of the main forum itself. Nevertheless, the Trajan's Markets moniker has stuck, and I've used it here.

General view showing the curve of Trajan's Markets (on the right), the site of the porticus of Trajan's Forum (bottom centre) and the columns of the Basilica Ulpia (towards the left of the image with Trajan's Column behind). 

As with many of Rome's substantial surviving structures, Trajan's Markets passed through several later phases of occupation and adaptation. In the 13th and 14th centuries the complex became incorporated into a fortified structure, of which the adjoining Torre delle Milizie remains a dominant feature. It was then used to house a convent, with some structural alterations, in the 16th century, followed by a further change to barracks use in the late 1800s after the unification of Italy with Rome as its capital. Excavations took place between 1926 and 1934 under Italy's Fascist administration, including the removal of many post-Roman alterations. Given the site's history, it is not surprising that there is little (or no) archaeological evidence remaining that could show us what people were actually doing in these rooms. Nevertheless, the site still provides an evocative glimpse into the Roman age.  

Trajan's Markets houses the Museum of the Imperial Forums (Museo dei Fori Imperiali), containing finds from the nearby forums, and is a venue for other temporary exhibitions. I have included a few highlights from the museum at the end of this blog post.

Exploring Trajan's Markets

After negotiating the ticket office, gift shop and left luggage lockers, you are confronted by what is now known as the Great Hall (below) (Italian - Grande Aula).

Trajan's Markets - the Great Hall

A huge concrete vault, standing on piers flanked by two parallel upper walkways, gives this space a light, airy and modern feel. Generally, the complex is built from brick-faced concrete, with stone used mainly for architectural details.

On either side of the hall are a series of doorways leading into side rooms. The spaces on the right (south) side have windows while those opposite are more gloomy vaults. This is a general pattern for the site as a whole; as a result of its position, many of units have been built into the hillside and have little or no natural light. The rooms leading off the Great Hall house a range of exhibits from the Museo dei Fori Imperiali.  

It is worth noting that the neat stone surrounds of the doorways, each with a smaller opening above (below), are largely reconstructions. Images from the 1920s show that these were generally missing when the site was being excavated and restored. 

Doorways in the side of the Great Hall. The right hand one has stairs to the upper level.

Climbing to the upper level gives a better view of the vaulted roof and allows you to appreciate the structure as a whole. A modern bridge (partly visible to the upper right of the photo above) links the two higher level walkways. 

  

Trajan's Markets - the upper levels of the Great Hall

Trajan's Markets - upper walkway

Returning to the main level, there is a choice of onward route. A doorway to the left leads through a passageway created in modern times to a building facing towards the hill behind. This contains a maze of rooms, some of which house further museum exhibits, leading to an open area in front of the medieval Torre delle Milizie.

The original Roman route went through the right hand door, from where steps descend to the Via Biberatica (below), a street seemingly suspended halfway up the hillside.

Trajan's Markets - the Via Biberatica. The doorway on the right leads to steps down from the Great Hall.

Although you will be inevitably drawn towards the panorama across the imperial forums, it is worth making a brief detour at this point by turning right and walking around the corner. This leads to what might be the most authentic Roman street scene in central Rome (below), with ancient buildings rising on either side (obviously the one at the far end is modern). The overall design reflects that of the Great Hall, which is situated above and to the right.

Trajan's Markets - Roman street scene on the Via Biberatica

At the far end of this street are steps and a wheelchair lift linking back to the Great Hall. However, its best to retrace your steps and follow the Via Biberatica out along its semi-circular curve (or hemicycle) following the footprint of Trajan's Forum (see photo below). The units on the outward-facing side of this street have been largely lost with only foundations remaining. In contrast, those facing into the hillside are well-preserved, although not all open to view. Notwithstanding the modern interpretation of the site's function discussed above, it is hard to escape the thought that at least some might have been occupied by shops or other commercial premises.

Trajan's Markets - looking down onto the Via Biberatica

Walking further along this route brings you to a staircase leading back up to the higher level. A terrace here gives excellent views over the site's multiple levels (below), as well as towards Trajan's Column (see earlier image). From this point you can double back through rooms at this level to return to the Great Hall. However, it is worth retracing your steps down to the Via Biberatica.

Trajan's Markets - view from the terrace showing the multi-level structure

From the Via Biberatica level, staircases descend further down the hill. These lead to an enclosed street, located behind the upper row of arches in the above photo, with a series of rooms or units facing into the slope of the hill. From here you can get a closer view down onto Trajan's Forum (below): a basalt-paved street ran between the base of Trajan's Markets and the back wall (exhedra) of the forum, which is now only one or two courses high. One of a pair of Egyptian granite columns adjoining an entranceway through the exhedra wall has been re-erected and stands in solitary splendour.

 

Trajan's Forum - view from lower levels of Trajan's Markets

That completes our tour of the Trajan's Markets complex. All that remains is the climb up several staircases to return to the Grand Hall. 

Museo dei Fori Imperiali

While this blog post focuses mainly on the built fabric of Trajan's Markets, it's impossible to ignore the collection of artefacts housed in and around the Great Hall. A small selection are illustrated below, but this doesn't do full justice to the variety of objects on display. It is worth taking some time to explore these rooms during your visit.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali - Female portrait from the Forum of Trajan

This detached head (above) from a colossal statue (which probably reached almost 5 metres in height) is thought by some to be a portrait of Nero's mother Agrippina the Younger (AD 15-59). However, as the museum caption points out, this would be an unusual image to display in Trajan's Forum. Instead it is suggested that this may be intended to represent Trajan's mother, about whom very little is known.

Among the many other sculptures on display, I was particularly taken by this small bronze bust of the philosopher Chrysippus (below), a Greek philosopher of the 3rd century BC. The piece is Roman, probably dating from the Flavian period (around AD 75). To my eyes the level of realism gives it a rather modern appearance. It was found during excavations of the Temple of Peace (on the other side of the Via dei Fori Imperiali) in the late 1990s.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali - bust of Chrysippus

Excavations of the Forum of Nerva around the same time produced several fragments of a relief that has been identified as coming from the building's upper level (Italian 'attico'). The reconstructed image (below), dating from AD 97, is thought to symbolise one of the provinces added to the empire. 

Museo dei Fori Imperiali - Relief from the Forum of Nerva

As a nice domestic contrast, a room on the opposite side of the Great Hall contains a striking display of amphoras of varying sizes and designs. The rounded Dressel 20 design (below) was used mainly to transport olive oil from Baetica (Southern Spain). It's nice to come across so many intact examples: back in Britain we're usually only seeing fragments.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali - Dressel 20 amphoras

The final image in this selection is a touch bizarre - a disembodied female right foot in gilded bronze (below). It seems to have belonged to the statue of a winged victory (Nike) from the Temple of Mars Ultor ('Mars the Avenger') in the Forum of Augustus dating from 2 BCE when the temple was dedicated.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali - foot from statue of winged victory, Forum of Augustus

Final Word

After exploring all of those stairs, passages and rooms, it comes as a bit of a disappointment that Trajan's Markets doesn't contain a cafe! Fortunately there are plenty of refreshment options in the site's vicinity, for example on and around the Via Panisperna - a five minute walk to the east.

Site References

Mercati di Triano official website - link. This includes a variety of resources, including a virtual tour.

d'Aquino, R. (2015) 'One or two things about architecture: Restoration works at Trajan's Market.' Frontiers of Architectural Research, 4(2), p.81.

Claridge, Amanda (2010) Rome - An Oxford Archaeological Guide (2nd edition). Oxford: OUP. (An essential resource!)

Lancaster, Lynne (1995) 'The date of Trajan's Markets: an assessment in the light of some unpublished brick stamps'. Papers of the British School at Rome, 63, pp.25-44.

Lancaster, Lynne (1998). 'Building Trajan's Markets.' American Journal of Archaeology, 102(2), pp.283-308.

Lancaster, Lynne (2000) 'Building Trajan's Markets 2: the construction process.' American Journal of Archaeology, 104(4), pp.755-785.

Text and images (c) Mike Hetherington (unless otherwise stated). Visits to Roman sites described in this blog are at your own risk.